Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Pal-GHK, palmitoyl-glycyl-histidyl-lysine, palmitoyl oligopeptide (older INCI name), one half of the "Matrixyl 3000" blend

Skin & cosmetic
Awaiting medical reviewEN ES DE FR PT ZH+ Follow for updates

1What it is

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is the same three-amino-acid sequence as GHK (see the GHK-Cu profile, #5), but without a copper ion and with a fatty-acid "anchor" attached to one end. The fatty acid makes the molecule more oil-loving, which helps it get through the outer layer of the skin; naked peptides are water-loving and mostly sit on the surface.

It was developed in the early 2000s by a French cosmetic-ingredient company as part of a two-peptide blend sold under the trade name Matrixyl 3000, paired with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (#182). The blend was positioned as a successor to the original Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, pal-KTTKS). It is now one of the most common peptides in mass-market anti-ageing products, and the research base is almost entirely the manufacturer's own dossier plus a handful of independent reviews.

It is a synthetic cosmetic molecule. GHK itself occurs naturally in plasma; the palmitoylated version does not.


2How it's thought to work

Matrikine signalling. When collagen and other matrix proteins break down, the fragments ("matrikines") tell nearby fibroblasts that repair is needed. GHK is one such fragment. Pal-GHK is meant to deliver that signal from the outside, prompting fibroblasts to produce collagen I, collagen IV, fibronectin, glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid.
Synergy claim. The manufacturer's rationale for the blend is that pal-GHK rebuilds matrix while pal-GQPR (#182) dampens the inflammatory signal (interleukin-6) that accelerates matrix breakdown.
Penetration. The palmitoyl tail is the key design feature. Even so, how much of the peptide reaches the dermis — where the fibroblasts are — is debated; some effects may be epidermal or indirect.
A three-amino-acid collagen fragment with a palmitic acid tail. In cultured fibroblasts it increases collagen and glycosaminoglycan production.Schematic — not to scale

None of the mechanism has been demonstrated in human skin biopsies in a published, peer-reviewed study. It rests on cell culture and the manufacturer's in-vitro work.


3What the research shows

Fibroblast matrix production (cell culture)

In cultured human fibroblasts, GHK and pal-GHK increase collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis; the manufacturer reports several-fold increases in collagen I, fibronectin and hyaluronic acid with the blend (Lintner & Peschard 2000, Int J Cosmet Sci; manufacturer in-vitro data summarised in Schagen 2017, Cosmetics). Manufacturer-generated, not independently replicated. [1][3]

Wrinkles and skin roughness (topical, blend)

The manufacturer's placebo-controlled study of the Matrixyl 3000 blend in roughly two dozen women over two months reported reductions in wrinkle depth, volume and roughness measured by skin-surface profilometry, with figures in the 15–25% range for various parameters †. These data were presented as manufacturer material and conference posters rather than in a peer-reviewed journal; sample size, blinding and dropout details are not fully available. Independent reviews describe the evidence as "promising but industry-generated" (Gorouhi & Maibach 2009, Int J Cosmet Sci; Errante 2020, Front Chem). [2][4]

Eye-area wrinkles (multi-peptide products)

Several small, open-label or single-blind studies of commercial multi-peptide serums containing pal-GHK with pal-GQPR and other actives report reduced line counts and improved texture over 8–12 weeks (e.g. multi-peptide eye-serum reports in Dermatol Times, 2010s). None isolates pal-GHK's contribution.

Comparison with retinoids

No head-to-head trial against tretinoin or retinol exists. Marketing comparisons with retinol are based on separate studies with different designs.

Systemic or injectable use

None published; none expected. Community discussion of injecting this molecule is rare and has no basis.

4Reported side effects and interactions

Literature-reported

Well tolerated in cosmetic safety testing (patch tests, repeat-insult patch tests) at use levels. No sensitisation signal reported. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) safety assessments of palmitoyl oligopeptides concluded they are safe at cosmetic concentrations †.

Community-reported

occasional mild stinging or redness, usually attributed to the base formula rather than the peptide. Reports of "purging" are not supported by any mechanism.

Theoretical. because it signals fibroblast growth, the usual question about effects on skin lesions is raised; at trace concentrations with limited penetration there is no evidence of concern, but it has not been studied.

Interactions. peptides can be degraded by strong acids and some direct-acid exfoliants; formulators generally avoid very low pH. Copper-containing products (GHK-Cu) layered with pal-GHK are commonly used together in the community with no studied interaction.

Markers researchers commonly monitor

No blood markers are relevant to a topical cosmetic peptide. Measures used in studies and by members:

MarkerWhy it's watched
Standardised photographssame lighting, angle and distance, every 2–4 weeks; the only honest home measure for fine lines.
Skin-surface profilometry or 3D imaging (VISIA-type systems)the instruments the trials used; available at some clinics.
Corneometry / TEWL (transepidermal water loss)hydration and barrier measures, since much of the "plumping" effect of peptide serums is hydration.
Patch test on the inner forearm before full-face use, as for any new cosmetic

Free for everyone. Safety information is never behind a paywall.


5Formulation and handling

Sold only as a finished-product ingredient; it is not by end users. Products typically list "palmitoyl tripeptide-1" and "palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7" together near the bottom of the ingredient list, which reflects the very low use concentration (fractions of a percent) rather than a formulation flaw. Stable in water-based serums and emulsions at pH roughly 5–7. Heat and prolonged light exposure shorten shelf life. Members who DIY cosmetics report dissolving the raw material in a glycol or water phase at the ingredient manufacturer-recommended 3–8% of blend. No calculator applies.


6Commonly studied alongside

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (#182, its blend partner), palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), GHK-Cu (#5), acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), hyaluronic acid, retinol and niacinamide in "peptide + antioxidant" cosmetic formulas.

Informational cross-links. Not stack recommendations.


7Regulatory status by region

RegionStatus (checked —)
United StatesCosmetic ingredient; no FDA pre-approval required. Anti-wrinkle claims are permitted as cosmetic ("appearance") claims only; claims to change skin structure would make the product an unapproved drug
European UnionListed in CosIng as a skin-conditioning agent; permitted under the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. No concentration limit set
United KingdomSame as EU under the retained UK Cosmetics Regulation
AustraliaPermitted cosmetic ingredient; products regulated under AICIS/ACCC, not TGA, provided only cosmetic claims are made
South AfricaPermitted in cosmetics (CTFA SA self-regulation; SAHPRA has no role unless medicinal claims are made)
Sport (WADA)Not listed; topical cosmetic peptides are not a doping concern

8Open questions

  • Does pal-GHK actually reach dermal fibroblasts in intact human skin, and at what concentration?
  • Is there any independent, peer-reviewed, placebo-controlled trial of the single peptide rather than the blend or a multi-active product?
  • How much of the reported effect in product trials is due to the vehicle (humectants, emollients) rather than the peptide?

9References

  1. 1Lintner K, Peschard O (2000). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. PubMed · DOI
  2. 2Gorouhi F, Maibach HI (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. PubMed · DOI
  3. 3Schagen SK (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. DOI
  4. 4Errante F et al. (2020). Cosmeceutical peptides in the framework of sustainable wellness economy. Front Chem. PubMed · DOI
  5. 5Lupo MP, Cole AL (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther. PubMed · DOI
  6. 6Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A (2015). GHK peptide as a natural modulator of multiple cellular pathways in skin regeneration. Biomed Res Int. PubMed · DOI

† Being confirmed by our reviewers against current sources.


10Community

Threads and protocols are visible to members. Joining is free.

Self-reported side effects Phase 2

Not enough data yet. 0 of the 50 members needed have logged this compound for 4+ weeks. We don't show anything below 50, so no one can be identified.

11Page history

31 Oct 2026Profile published — awaiting medical review

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